Stiff Vibes at the Ritz, London

For Christmas 2019, I was gifted a three-course meal for two at the Ritz restaurant, London. After covid complications and some rescheduling, myself and the other half were finally able to secure a reservation for January 2022. As per the strict dress code, we donned our jackets and ties, and off we went.

Arriving at the Ritz we were greeted by a friendly doorman who directed us into the small lobby area and down the long hallway to the restaurant. This was our first visit so we took a moment to soak in the decor and vibe, while moseying towards the restaurant. The hotel is lavishly decorated with 18th/19th century carpeting and furnishings. It’s a swirl of of gold, red and beige, evoking an ‘old world’ elegance. It truly feels like you’re transported from the busy streets of London to another time and place.

At the restaurant we were greeted kindly, reservation confirmed, and jackets taken to coat check before being seated. The dining room is decorated in keeping with the rest of the hotel. Large chandeliers, sconces and mirrors illuminate the space, with various murals covering the walls and ceiling. Windows to the street and interior courtyard run along one side of the room. The dim light and rich decor contribute to the space feeling relatively cosy despite its size and ceiling height. However, the atmosphere was also a little stiff. To be fair, the dining room wasn’t quite half-full (at 7pm), although quickly filled up as the evening progressed. I think it was a combination of elements contrbuting to the stilted ambience: the strict dress code, formal service (more on this later), average age of diners (about 60) and mostly couples. Not many laughs or jovial could be heard.

Our table was one or two from the back of the dining room. Being this near to the server station was a tad unfortunate as there was constant traffic behind and in front of our table, with waiters tending to tables and delivering food and drinks.

Speaking of drinks, we stuck to Bollinger champagne for the evening, which was deliciously cold and crisp. After being offered the regular menu, I explained I eat vegan and he, vegetarian and were promptly given a menu for vegetarian and vegan diners. The separate menu was a nice surprise. As plant-based eaters reading this will know, often restaurants try to cobble together options from the regular menu by suggesting multiple starters and sides. Having legitimate plant-based options was appreciated. It was explained that each of the vegetarian dishes could be easily modified to be vegan upon request, unless stated on the menu.

We started off with the amuse bouche; bite size goats cheese domes along with celeriac ‘leaves’. My vegetarian partner enjoyed the goat cheese thoroughly while I loved the crispy leaves. It’s always a nice surprise when something that looks insubstantial and delicate packs a big flavour punch.

While waiting on the first course, warm bread arrived with regular butter. However, vegan butter was quickly fetched when requested, which was an excellent substitute. Before I forget, I must point out that the table dressing and tableware were beautiful, classic silver service with pink table clothes, fresh flowers, and an impressively real looking LED candle (sounds awful but it was pretty convincing). It seemed like everything was served with a cloche, which I loved for the drama of a reveal. Even the vegan butter had a little cloche over it when it arrived.

For the first course I had the wild mushroom dish, which was excellent. The mushrooms and accompanying sauce were rich and flavourful as were the other elements on the dish. The plating showed an attention to detail and was a real visual feast.

For main I had the gnocchi, which unfortunately was a bit of a let-down. Plated beautifully, although in a surprisingly stark white modern bowl, which stood out from the rest of the table decor. The main elements were gnocchi in a pumpkin sauce with pieces of what I assume were celeriac. The twist was that the celeriac pieces were carved to look like gnocchi and the gnocchi were shaped into small squares. As I ordered the vegan version, the dish came with sage oil instead of sage butter, spooned onto the dish at the table. There was no significant sage taste from the dish, perhaps warming the oil would have helped. This coupled with the forgettable sauce made the dish serviceable but a bit of a miss.

For dessert, the chocolate ganache was rich and decadent and was served with a hard sweet orange tube shell filled with a cold creamy substance. I believe this was supposed to be the banana element, however, as per the main course, the flavours were muted. As I am a chocolate fiend, I thoroughly enjoyed it nonetheless, along with a cup of black filter coffee.

Which brings me to the service. Generally, it was perfectly acceptable and professional, however, it did feel a tad aggressive. The staff were pleasant, but it was like being seated into a well-oiled machine and having to go along for the ride. We had no less than four people tending to our table at different times, which seemed impersonal for a Michelin star restaurant in a five-star hotel. The factory feeling was exacerbated by the sheer size of the dining room and the lack of a convivial ambience. Although, halfway through dinner the pianist started playing, which was a lovely respite from the quiet murmur of other diners.

Overall, the experience was a bit of a let-down, especially given the price point. While having a separate vegetarian / vegan menu was a plus, the hit and miss food, coupled with the rote service and library like atmosphere means I won’t be rushing back.

It is certainly an experience to dine at the Ritz. The old-world feel, specific atmosphere, and dress code, all come together to create a certain vibe, it’s just not for everyone. I can’t imagine you’d have a bad meal here but for the price and reputation, you want something memorable, for the right reasons.